On my radar: opera pumps
This photo of Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley (above) appeared on my Pinterest and got me thinking about opera pumps.
WTF are opera pumps? Quite simply a Regency-era formal men’s slipper previously adorned with a buckle, now with a flat grosgrain bow (below). The opera pump is traditionally worn with black tie, accompanied by black sheer silk socks (and sock suspenders!). The classic variety popularised by the Edwardians is made from black patent leather, although since the 1950s highly polished calfskin has also been an option. How is an opera pump different to a ballet pump? To me, it has a slightly slimmer profile, a more solid heel, is cut higher on the vamp and finished with a grosgrain bow.
What’s interesting to me is the updated styling. Jalil Johnson wears his vintage Ralph Lauren opera pumps with a Victoria Beckham blazer, Muji trousers and a vintage Gap shirt (below); Andre Leon Talley looks fab in his white socks pairing (above, in 1977 but could be now) and Alessandro Michele has contemporised it in a brown and navy two-tone matte leather with a squared-off toe for Valentino Pre-Fall 25 (below). AWMS’s Tony Sylvester also produced his take on an opera pump in brown unpolished matte calf leather and paired it with casual bottoms and ribbed socks (below) – alas men’s sizes only. (My friend Nic told me he plans to sport his opera pumps with 501s, cashmere crew necks and Ralph Lauren primary coloured socks.)
In fact, women’s opera pumps are quite hard to come by. Another reason I like them (I do love a hunt!). Bode has an Italian-made classic style in black napa (below); Thom Browne has a square-toed black patent* (below) and Suzanne Rae has a slightly elevated sole and heel.
Oh, you know who I’d expect to wear an opera pump? Fran Lebowitz. But no, ever the contrarian she wore 100cm patent heels with her black tie. And rocked it, tbf…
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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley; Gentleman’s Gazette; Jalil Jonhson; Valentino Pre-Fall 25; AWMS; Bode; Thom Browne; Fran Lebowitz by Jonathan Becker
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here
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